The karakou is the ceremonial jacket of Algiers: velvet, gold-thread embroidery, a fitted cut. It has come through the centuries changing its length, its colours and what it is worn with. Today’s modern karakou is shorter and lighter, and worn as readily with trousers as with a dress. Our gold-thread embroidered boleros are the easiest way to take up the style.
Where the karakou comes from
Born among the bourgeoisie of Algiers, the karakou was worn with the seroual, a full, gathered trouser, for weddings and major celebrations. The velvet, often black, green or burgundy, is embroidered with gold thread using two traditional techniques, fetla and medjboud, which create scrolls, foliage and medallions. It is a dowry garment, embroidered over weeks, which is what makes it so costly when it is entirely handmade.
What is meant by a modern karakou
Over the past twenty years or so, designers have shortened the jacket, lightened the embroidery, widened the colour palette (white, powder pink, caramel, aubergine) and changed what is worn underneath: straight trousers, a long skirt, a plain dress. The modern karakou keeps the essentials, velvet and gold embroidery, and becomes wearable for a guest, not only for the bride.
The gold-thread embroidered bolero: the short version
Our atelier in Paris offers a short interpretation: the bolero in black, burgundy or aubergine velvet, embroidered with gold thread in scrolls or scattered flowers, which stops above the waist and lets the dress show. It can be worn closed or open. On its own it is €89; as a set with the clutch embroidered in the same pattern, €119, in black, black with scrolls, burgundy or aubergine, one size, UK 8–12 (FR 36–40). You will find them in our embroidered waistcoat and bolero collection ; for example the gold-thread embroidered black velvet bolero or theburgundy bolero and clutch set.
Embroidered waistcoats & boleros
Gold-thread embroidered bolero in black velvet — floral motif, handmade
€89.00One of a kind
Embroidered waistcoats & boleros
Gold-embroidered bolero & matching clutch — burgundy velvet, karakou-inspired
€119.00One of a kind
How to wear a modern karakou
- Wedding : a black or burgundy bolero over a plain long dress, a set in beads and gold-tone medallions, a matching clutch.
- Engagement : a caramel bolero over a cream dress, an amber-tone or citrine-tone set.
- Evening : a black gold-embroidered bolero over tuxedo trousers and a silk top. The city version, and it works.
- Avoid : a heavily embroidered dress under an embroidered bolero; one of the two should be plain.
Which jewellery to wear with a gold-embroidered bolero
The embroidery is gold, so the jewellery is too: a gold-tone bib necklace with cultured pearls if the bolero is open, drop earrings and a bracelet if the collar is closed. Black and gold crystals go with black velvet, amber tones with burgundy and caramel. Browse all our ceremony jewellery sets.
Ceremony jewellery sets
Gold-tone bib necklace — cultured pearls & large filigree pendant
€99.00One of a kind
Karakou, Kabyle waistcoat, caftan: telling them apart
The karakou comes from Algiers, has sleeves and is embroidered in gold. The Kabyle waistcoat is sleeveless, in trimmed velvet, and worn open over the Kabyle dress. The caftan is a long dress. Our guide to North African ceremony outfits shows how to pair them with jewellery and a clutch.
Care
Velvet embroidered with metallic thread cannot be washed: specialist dry cleaning, storage on a hanger in a cover, ironing inside out with gentle steam. The embroidery on our boleros is sewn, not glued, and ages well if you follow these three rules.
Frequently asked questions
Is an embroidered bolero a karakou?
It is a short, light version inspired by the karakou. A full karakou is a longer jacket with sleeves, embroidered all over.
How much does a real karakou cost?
A traditional karakou embroidered entirely by hand costs hundreds, even thousands, of euros, depending on how dense the embroidery is. Our boleros are €89 because they are short and the embroidery is concentrated.
Delivery and returns?
Dispatched within 3 working days for pieces in stock, complimentary delivery from €79 (so on every bolero), and 14 days to change your mind.
