Behind a piece of gold-coloured jewellery lie several techniques, and they are not all equal — in brilliance, in lifespan or in price. Here is what you need to choose with full knowledge, and to spot the shortcuts.
Electroplated gilding
A thin layer of gold is deposited on a base metal, most often brass, in an electric bath. It is the most widespread technique, and the most affordable. Everything depends on thickness: the more generous the layer, the longer the piece keeps its brilliance. In France, regulated designations require at least three microns of gold; below that, it is simply called gold-tone metal, and the gilding wears more quickly.
Vermeil
This is solid sterling silver (925) covered with a layer of gold at least three microns thick. The advantage is twofold: a core of precious metal and a generous gilding. Rarer and more costly than simple gilding, vermeil is a fine step before solid gold.
Gold-filled
Here, a much thicker layer of gold is bonded mechanically to the metal, under pressure and heat. The result: excellent resistance to daily wear, greater than electroplated gilding. It is the ideal finish for a piece worn every day, even in contact with water or perspiration.
Which to choose, depending on use
For an everyday piece, favour gold-filled or a thick gilding. For a piece worn only for grand occasions, a fine gilding offers the brilliance you are looking for at the right price — it is the most common choice for ceremonial jewellery sets. The only rule worth keeping: always ask which finish it is, and set aside promises that rest on nothing.
Caring for it well
Whatever the finish: keep it away from damp, perfume and abrasive products, and wipe it with a soft cloth after wearing. Avoid sleeping or showering in your gold-tone jewellery. Stored in a pouch, away from the air, well-treated gold-tone jewellery can be passed on.
Ready to put it into practice? Discover our handmade jewellery, or read our guide to recognise a true artisan piece.
